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Pressure evaluation of 3D seamless knitted bras and conventional wired bras
Authors:Rong Zheng  Winnie Yu  Jintu Fan
Institution:(1) Institute of Textiles and Clothing, The Hong Kong Polytechnic University, Kowloon, Hong Kong SAR, China;(2) School of Fashion Art and Engineering, Beijing Institute of Clothing Technology, Beijing, 100029, P. R. China
Abstract:Seamless knitting for making bras is a novel approach. The fitting evaluation of these products remains unknown and there is limited knowledge about the effects of knitting parameters on the bra tension. This study developed 3 styles of seamless knitted bras with various loop length and elastic yarn tension based on a 22 full factorial experimental design with one additional centre level. Therefore, a total of 3 × 5= 15 new seamless bra samples have been knitted. The skin pressure exerted by the new bras was compared with 4 commercial bras including 2 “cut and sewn” wired bras and 2 seamless knitted bras. Six women subjects of breast size 75B* in our newly developed breast sizing system were invited to wear all the bra samples. The skin pressure exerted by the bra was measured by the Novel pliance-X pressure sensors on 11 body positions. The results indicated that newly developed seamless bras showed lower pressure than the commercial bras, but had a considerably higher pressure at the cup base point. The new seamless bras with the largest loop length presented the lowest pressure values. Furthermore, empirical equations were established to predict 2 critical pressure points at “apex” and “side bottom band” from two major knitting parameters. This study provides the new knowledge of seamless knitted bra fitting and the resulted bra pressure, as well as some guidelines for seamless knitted product design and manufacturing.
Keywords:Seamless knitting  Bra  Pressure  Loop length  Yarn tension
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